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Grisette (person)
The word grisette (sometimes spelled grizette) has referred to a French working-class woman from the late 17th century and remained in common use through the Belle Époque era, albeit with some modifications to its meaning. It derives from ''gris'', (French for grey), and refers to the cheap grey fabric of the dresses these women originally wore. The 1694 edition of the ''Dictionnaire de l'Académie française'' described a grisette as simply "a woman of lowly condition". By the 1835 edition of the dictionary, her status had risen somewhat. She was described as:
"a young working woman who is coquettish and flirtatious."〔1835 edition of the ''Dictionnaire de l'Académie française'' cited in (''The Grisette as the Female Bohemian'' ), Hanna Manchin, Brown University, 2000.〕 This usage can be seen in one of Oliver Wendell Holmes' early poems 'Our Yankee Girls' (1830):
"the gay grisette, whose fingers touch love's thousand chords so well...".〔'Our Yankee Girls', ''The Poetical Works of Oliver Wendell Holmes'', Volume 12: Verses from the Oldest Portfolio.〕 In practice, "young working woman" referred primarily to those employed in the garment and millinery trades as seamstresses or shop assistants, the few occupations open to them in 19th century urban France, apart from domestic service.〔(Breaking the Social Stereotypes of the 19th Century French Poor ), Mount Holyoke.〕 The sexual connotations which had long accompanied the word are made explicit in ''Webster's Third New International Dictionary'' (1976) which lists one of its meanings as a young woman who combines part-time prostitution with another occupation. ''Webster's'' quotes an example from Henry Seidel Canby's 1943 biography of Walt Whitman:
"and many years later () was still talking to Traubel of the charm of the dusky grisettes who sold love as well as flowers on the streets of New Orleans."〔Henry Seidel Canby, ''Walt Whitman, an American: A Study in Biography'', Houghton Mifflin Company, 1943, p. 76.〕
==The 18th century grisette==
In 1730 Jonathan Swift was already using 'grisette' in English to signify qualities of both flirtatiousness and intellectual aspiration. (See The grisette in poetry below.) The grisette also makes an appearance in Lawrence Sterne's 1768 novel ''A Sentimental Journey Through France and Italy''. In Chapter II of the novel, the Reverend Mr. Yorick (the narrator and Sterne's alter ego) recounts his obsessions with Parisian grisettes, and especially with a particularly beautiful one who worked in a Paris glove shop:
:"The beautiful grisette looked sometimes at the gloves, then sideways to the window, then at the gloves, and then at me. I was not disposed to break silence. I followed her example: so, I looked at the gloves, then to the window, then at the gloves, and then at her, and so on alternately. I found I lost considerably in every attack: she had a quick black eye, and shot through two such long and silken eyelashes with such penetration, that she look'd into my very heart and reins. It may seem strange, but I could actually feel she did."〔Lawrence Sterne, ''(A Sentimental Journey Through France and Italy )'', 1768, published on Project Gutenberg.〕
One of the most famous grisettes of the 18th century was Madame du Barry (1743–1793). However, she soon rose well beyond her initial social status. The illegitimate daughter of a seamstress, she had moved to Paris at the age of 15, where, using the name Jeanne Rancon, she worked first as an assistant to a young hairdresser with whom she had an affair and later as a milliner's assistant in a shop named ''A La Toilette''. In 1763, her beauty came to the attention of Jean du Barry, a fashionable pimp/procurer and casino owner. He made her his mistress and helped establish her career as a courtesan in the highest circles of Parisian society, where she took several wealthy men as her 'benefactors', including the Duke of Richelieu. On her marriage to du Barry's brother, she became Marie-Jeanne, Comtesse du Barry, and in April 1769 she became the official mistress (''maîtresse declarée'' or ''maîtresse en titre'') of King Louis XV of France.
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